Horse Pens 40 (Oneida, AL)
// November 29th, 2010 // Chattanooga Climbing
Horse Pens 40 is an international destination for boulderers, with acres of bulbous sandstone faces, blunt prows, tall slabs, steep overhangs, and challenging water grooves. For a small day fee ($5/day/climber), the owners, Mike and Gina Shultz, have been so kind to open up this once closed gem of a boulder field to the public. There are over 100 problems from V-3-V5, and just as many between V6-V8, all within earshot of the parking lot, campgrounds ($10/person/night) and the general store. All amenities, including rental climbing gear is available. Especially notable problems are: Genesis (V3), Bumboy (V3), Man with the Slow Hand (V4), Millipede (V5), Moon Arete (V6), Chattanooga Plow (V7), Skywalker (V8), Slider (V9) and God Module (V11).
Directions from Chattanooga: Take I-24 W to I-59 S to Exit 166, the exit for Ashville and Oneonta. Head north (right off the exit ramp) on US231 /AL 53. Go about 3 miles and you will see the ‘Horse Pens 40″ signs. Turn right onto County Road 35 / Gallant Rd. After a few miles, turn right onto County Rd. 42, where again there is a HP40 sign, although not as big as the first. Go to the top of the mountain to the marked entrance of HP40.
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