Climbing at the Phoenix Buttress at Smith Rock State Park

Towering over the winding Crooked River in central Oregon’s high desert, the Phoenix Buttress at Smith Rock State Park epitomizes the region’s world-class climbing allure. This striking formation, characterized by its reddish-purple welded tuff, offers climbers of varying skill levels an unforgettable journey up its meticulously bolted sport routes.

Smith Rock is revered as the birthplace of American sport climbing, and the Phoenix Buttress contributes a vital chapter to that legacy. From the technical sequences of "Phoenix" (5.10a) to the challenging finesse of "License To Bolt" (5.11c), the buttress caters to those looking to sharpen their technique on classic rock. Beginners and intermediates will appreciate routes like "Hissing Llamas" (5.8), which deliver accessible thrills without sacrificing Smith Rock’s trademark exposure and scenery.

Climbers can enjoy year-round access here, though spring and fall often boast the best weather. The approach is manageable, a short stroll along the River Trail, allowing adventurers to focus their energy on scaling the buttress’ vertical face. Afterward, the park’s sweeping vistas and serene trails provide a perfect cool-down.

Whether you’re testing your limits or relishing the timeless beauty of Smith Rock, the Phoenix Buttress promises an experience that blends challenge, history, and awe-inspiring natural beauty.

Adventure Guide to Climbing at Phoenix Buttress

Key Facts:

• Location: Smith Rock State Park, near Terrebonne, Oregon.
• Elevation: Approximately 3,360 feet (1,024 meters).
• Rock Type: Reddish-purple welded tuff.
• Climbing Types: Predominantly sport climbing.
• Season: Year-round; optimal conditions from spring through fall.

Notable Routes:

• Hissing Llamas (5.8):
  Also known as "Scary Llamas," this nine-bolt route offers a moderate climb with engaging moves, making it suitable for climbers seeking a less strenuous ascent.

• Phoenix (5.10a):
  A five-bolt climb that provides a balance of technical and physical challenges, appealing to those looking to test their skills on classic Smith Rock terrain.

• JT's Route (5.10b):
  Also referred to as the "Jim Treviso Memorial Route," this seven-bolt line is celebrated for its enjoyable sequences and solid rock quality.

• License To Bolt (5.11c):
  A five-bolt route that demands precision and strength, offering a rewarding experience for climbers aiming to push their limits.

Approach:

• Trailhead:
  Begin at the main parking area of Smith Rock State Park.

• Route:
  Cross the footbridge over the Crooked River and proceed left onto the River Trail. Continue for approximately 0.58 miles until you reach the Phoenix Buttress, identifiable by its solid reddish-purple rock just above the trail on the right.

Historical Context:

Smith Rock State Park is heralded as the birthplace of American sport climbing, with its welded tuff formations attracting climbers since the 1980s. The Phoenix Buttress contributes to this legacy, offering a range of routes that cater to various skill levels.

Tips for Climbers:

• Gear:
  A standard sport climbing rack with quickdraws is sufficient for the bolted routes on Phoenix Buttress.

• Timing:
  The area can become crowded, especially during weekends and peak seasons. Arriving early or visiting on weekdays can provide a more solitary experience.

• Local Resources:
  Guide services, such as Smith Rock Climbing Guides, offer professional instruction and insights into the area's routes.

Safety Notes:

• Rock Quality:
  While the welded tuff is generally solid, always be vigilant for loose holds and wear a helmet to protect against potential rockfall.

• Environmental Stewardship:
  Adhere to Leave No Trace principles to help preserve the natural beauty and integrity of the park.

The Phoenix Buttress at Smith Rock State Park presents climbers with a harmonious blend of accessible routes and stunning scenery, embodying the essence of Oregon's climbing culture.