Whiteside Mountain: Multi-Pitch Climbing in the Heart of the Highlands

For climbers seeking long routes, jaw-dropping exposure, and the challenge of big-wall climbing in the Southeast, Whiteside Mountain stands tall as an unrivaled destination. Located near Highlands, NC, Whiteside is home to some of the steepest and most dramatic cliffs east of the Mississippi. This granite monolith boasts multi-pitch routes that attract climbers from all over the country, offering a unique mix of bold trad climbing and unparalleled views.

Whiteside Mountain’s routes are characterized by technical face climbing, delicate slabs, and heart-pounding exposure. Classics like Original Route (5.10a) and Traditions (5.9) take climbers up to 800 feet of sheer granite, rewarding every pitch with panoramic vistas of the surrounding Blue Ridge Mountains. For advanced climbers, Odyssey (5.12a) offers a thrilling combination of steep faces and intricate moves.

The nature of Whiteside’s climbing is bold and traditional. Protection can be sparse, with many routes featuring runouts that demand confidence and experience. Climbers here must embrace the old-school style of the region, relying on skill and mental fortitude as much as physical strength.

Whiteside Mountain is not just a climb; it’s an adventure. The towering granite walls, the echo of your partner’s calls, and the vast expanse of the Blue Ridge Mountains below create an experience that is equal parts humbling and exhilarating.

Adventure Guide: Multi-Pitch Climbing at Whiteside Mountain

Climbing Overview

• Rock Type: Granite
• Climbing Style: Trad, multi-pitch, and slab climbing
• Difficulty Range: 5.7 to 5.13a
• Best Time to Climb: Fall and winter for cooler temperatures and optimal conditions

Popular Routes

• Original Route (5.10a): A classic multi-pitch climb with technical face moves and stunning exposure.
• Traditions (5.9): A more moderate option featuring delicate slab climbing and solid protection.
• Odyssey (5.12a): A challenging line with steep, sustained climbing and bold moves.

What to Expect

• Features:
  • Long, sustained climbs up to 800 feet.
  • Runout sections and sparse protection in places—experience is essential.
  • Sweeping views of the Nantahala National Forest from belay stations and the summit.
• Scenery:
  • Towering granite faces surrounded by dense forests and distant ridgelines.
  • A remote, wilderness atmosphere that enhances the climbing experience.

Tips for Climbers

• Gear: A full trad rack with a variety of cams and nuts, plus slings for anchors. A 60m or 70m rope is recommended for longer pitches.
• Approach: A short but steep hike leads to the base of the climbs. Sturdy approach shoes are recommended.
• Safety Note: Whiteside is known for its runouts—climbers should have strong trad skills and be prepared for exposed sections. Helmets are essential due to potential rockfall.

Parking and Trailhead

• Access Point: Park at the Whiteside Mountain trailhead off Whiteside Mountain Road. A well-marked hiking trail leads to the base of the climbing routes.

Getting There

From Asheville, take I-40 West to Exit 27 for US-74 West toward Sylva. Continue to US-64 East toward Highlands. Turn onto Whiteside Mountain Road and follow it to the parking area. The drive takes approximately 1.5 hours from Asheville.

Fun Fact

Whiteside Mountain is one of the oldest mountains in the Appalachians, with rock formations dating back over 390 million years. Its unique geology creates some of the most dramatic cliffs and climbing experiences in the Southeast.